Day Seven Wednesday 15th June

Great Yarmouth 15/6

7am: 12c WD 195deg WS 9kt VIS 10km RAIN 0%

1pm: 13c WD 162deg WS 16kt VIS 5km RAIN 81%

Our departure time in the morning is governed by the need to arrive at Yarmouth at the right time. Traditionally this has been slack water, but going from south to north since the new bridge was built requires a slightly different approach. The tides at Yarmouth do strange things.  The vast expanse of Breydon Water provides a repository for lots of water. This is the result. At low tide the water coming up through Yarmouth harbour from the sea starts to flow up into Breydon, but the river Bure continues to ebb. The water coming down the Bure combines with the water coming in from the sea to spill out across the Breydon mud flats. Thus, for about an hour and a half, water flows up the Yare, but down the Bure.  This flood current is not strong and it used to be relatively easy to sail against it. The problem now is that on reaching the bridge the wind is blocked by the large structure, and it can be impossible to get through the bridge against the tide.

We therefore plan to come down Breydon with the last of the ebb. We will be unable to get up the Bure until slack water, so we will remain moored to the dolphin and enjoy a late breakfast. Low water is at 10:00 so there is no rush to be away. 08:55 sees us casting off in a brisk southerly breeze. The sail across Breydon is exhilarating. With the beam wind and the tide the GPS shows us travelling at more than 9mph. Motor cruisers are left standing.  At this speed we will reach the bridge too soon, so we sail back up and enjoy the crossing again.

Meanwhile I call the bridge to arrange the lift. We learn that they have a planned lift at low tide for a seagoing vessel. Could we go through at the same time? We arrive at the bridge almost exactly at the allotted time. With no sign of it opening, we turn back for a few minutes. As we turn, we see a large vessel approaching at high speed. Looking back the bridge starts to lift. The approaching boat turns out to be a catamaran hulled survey vessel. One of the crew shouts down to follow them through. The wind is blanketed under the bridge and we slow down. By the time we are through the survey vessel has disappeared down through the harbour towards the sea, We reach the marker post, turn up the Bure and moor to the second dolphin.

Coming in to the Dolphins can be a tricky manoeuvre, but is much eased by a trick learned from Graham at the yard. His advice was not to worry about reaching the dolphin. If you miss you only go aground on the soft mud. You can then take a rope across with the dinghy, and float off with the rising tide. As it happens we manage to come neatly alongside the second dolphin.

With the sails down it’s time to brew up and cook breakfast. It will be more than an hour before we can go up the Bure and we are stuck until then surrounded by water and mud flats. We get some strange looks from passing boats, but we also get a cheery greeting from folk we met in the pub last night. The scenery is not inspiring, so we concentrate on food and drink then the washing up.

With the meal cleared away, it’s time to drop the mast and head up under the bridges.  Above them, we moor, raise the mast and sail and set off. This first bit of the Bure through the commercial part of Yarmouth can be quite tricky as the wind is distorted and masked by the buildings, but we make good progress. Jon disappears below and we reach the large bend with Marina Keys on the north bank. As we round the bend, the full force of the wind hits us and it is all I can do to hold the boat. In the last hour and a half the wind has increased dramatically, and because we have been sheltered by the buildings we haven’t noticed. I put the helm down to bring us up into the wind and at the same time yell to Jon to get on deck quickly. We come alongside Marina Keys neatly and now we are head to wind and have got a rope ashore, we can relax.  I also take the opportunity to get an updated forecast

Great Yarmouth 15/6

11am: 14c WD 175deg WS 16kt VIS 11km RAIN 84%

5pm: 14c WD 184deg WS 16kt VIS 14km RAIN 14%

Usually the wind on the Broads is lighter than the forecast, which is for coastal waters, but we are experiencing at least 16 knots. We put a full three reefs in the mainsail, and set off again, feeling much more in control. With wind and tide behind us, we fly up the Bure, even fully reefed Stracey Arms and Stokesby fly by. At Acle we pass through the bridge with no trouble. Whilst the sail is down, we shake out one of the reefs. On to Thurne Mouth, and this time we stay on the Bure.

Well into the afternoon and we are at Ant Mouth. The Ant is a narrow river and going up under full sail in this strong wind would be a foolhardy undertaking, but with the wind in the south we can run up under the jib alone. We turn up into the wind on the south bank. Opposite Ant Mouth, drop the mainsail and cast off. We are on our way up towards Ludham Bridge, Barton Broad and eventually Dilham. Mooring for masting at Ludham bridge is a problem, as the public moorings are currently closed, but a call to the boatyard confirms that they have enough space for us.  Once through the bridge, with the wind moderating, we continue up past Howe Hill and onto the expanse of Barton Broad. As we go we see for the first time boats festooned with fishing rods. People are also beginning to find their spots on the banks. The fishing season starts tomorrow and many enthusiasts are getting ready to make their first cast on the stroke of midnight.

On Barton Broad, with the wind still dropping, we shake out the reefs, and in among the trees above the Broad, progress becomes very sedate. Eventually we reach Wayford Bridge. Through the bridge, and the wind has died completely. We quant on without stopping to raise the mast. Navigating after dark is not permitted, but we can raise the mast by torchlight.

Shortly after 21:30 we are moored up. Nine of the limits have been reached.  We tidy up in the gathering gloom.  Deciding that a walk to the pub is too ambitious, we enjoy a drop of the on board home brew before retiring for what will be a very short night.