Day Eight, Thursday 16th June

Great Yarmouth 16/6

7am: 14c WD 203deg WS 9kt VIS 10km RAIN 0%

1pm: 14c WD 199deg WS 12kt VIS 9km RAIN 78%

The night is indeed short as we arise at 05:00. Ten minutes later, with no sign of wind despite the forecast, we set off quanting back down towards Wayford Bridge.  At 06:15 we moor just above the bridge and, leaving David to prepare breakfast, Jon and I set off in the dinghy to see if we can reach Honing Lock.

With the lack of wind continuing we leave the rig behind. We will rely on the oars. Up to Tonnage Bridge the channel is wide, and would be navigable in the yacht. Indeed just below the bridge a privately owned yacht is moored.  About half a mile further on and the way divides, with a small spur going up to East Ruston.  This point marks the end of the easy progress. From here on the lilies and other weeds intrude more and more. Rowing becomes increasingly difficult. Eventually I resort to using one oar over the bow of the dinghy, with a technique akin to a canoeist’s draw stroke. In this manner we eventually reach the lock at 08:00. We have got to our tenth limit.

The return from the lock is a little easier.  Our technique is better developed and we have also cleared a channel on our way up. By 09:00 we are back at the yacht.

We set off straight away. There is now wind in the treetops, but it is light and from ahead at river level, so we quant down to Barton Broad. We moor up on the public moorings at the top of the broad, on the north side of the island with the strange name of The Heater. Refreshed, we prepare to hoist sail in the rapidly freshening wind. We opt for one reef, which is about right on the Broad, but in the tree-lined river below we are a little under canvassed. No matter, because by Howe Hill we are clear of the trees and the reef is a good thing again. The Ant is a narrow river, and tacking is not easy, particularly when there are motor cruisers wanting to get past. There are no real problems though, and by early afternoon, we are at Ludham bridge.  As we are dropping the mast, we see the distinctive sails of two Hunter’s yachts coming up the river, the first we’ve seen since leaving the yard. I walk down to the bridge and find that the two Wood class yachts have managed to moor opposite the boatyard. The moorings here are closed, but the men working on the repairs are happy for us to stop for masting. There is no room for us as well, so we wait until they have passed upstream before going under the bridge.

Under way again and the reef is definitely needed as we have a lively tack down to Ant Mouth, which we reach at 16:00.  Our remaining navigation limits are up the Bure, so that’s the way we go. The direction is west, so with a south wind it’s a beam reach.  At least it’s a good theory, in practice, with the many bends, there will be numerous tacking sessions.  We carry on up river and the wind begins to ease. We stop at the entrance to Cockshoot Broad to shake out the reef. Here we have our second encounter with Hunter boats, a couple in a Hustler are moored up here. The broad is not navigable, but has a nature trail around it. Another time this trail would be great to explore, but today we will have  a quick brew then press on. With the wind almost behind us we quickly reach Horning, but by now we are well into tree country and from the bend at the top of Horning the wind is no longer behind us. Progress slows and the wind drops, slowing it even more.  It is nearly 20:30 and a very light wind when we reach Wroxham.  With no prospect of making much more progress, we take advantage of civilisation and head for the chip shop.  The mast is down and we quant through the bridges.

The first bridge is an arched road bridge. There is a bit more clearance than at Potter Heigham, but it is set at an angle across the river making it difficult to see oncoming traffic. At this time of night however, the traffic is non-existent. We pass through, then under the railway bridge to moor on the Broads Authority moorings. We eat our fish, drink our beer and discuss our options.

It is clear that we cannot make Aylesham. A 24 mile round trip is a very long day’s rowing and we have to be back at the yard tomorrow night. Indeed Jon would like to be back sooner. He has a commitment at home in the evening, but keen for success he will forgo this if it will make a difference. We decide on the earliest possible start, with the intention of making Coltishall then returning to the yard all in one day.